Stewart Travels

Greetings subscribers! We are pleased to announce that our final yard period prior to launching on our cruise in April has been scheduled for the last week in Jan/first week in Feb … at Anacortes instead of Friday Harbor. Major jobs include the usual bottom painting and hull wax n buff and a propulsion train makeover from changing prop blade bearings to replacing the cutlass bearing, the shaft seal, and exchanging a press-fit shaft coupling at the transmission to a mechanical one for ease of future shaft seal replacement. We just had Breeze Canvas install a new dodger and replace the Bimini Shaun Breese installed on Encore some 13 years ago. (See picture below after landing at Eagle Harbor Marina following a transit home through high winds and rain. Acid test passed!!)

Had a little surprise when our electronics guy visited to determine why the radar was apparently dead. It WAS dead, and, having checked power (yes) and signal (no) at the radar dome while swinging from a bosun’s chair, Marc unbolted the thing and slung it to the deck (they’re only about 20#). Got a new one at Fisheries and installed it with technician Carl’s wiring/programming help, Friday 8 December. (Can’t believe it’s taken me nearly 25 years to figure out that a simple block and tackle set up is a FAR easier way to climb the mast! Thank you Greg Anderson (APLUW buddy and sailor).)

On a happier note, Nikos of BIR fame made over our Yanmar 56HP diesel, including changing motor mounts and injectors, and it purrs like a cat now. One happy engine! Also, our EU2200i Honda portable (at #45) generator works great under load including running Encore’s two heat pumps – one at a time! We’ll lash it to the deck forward of the Dodger while underway.

We have been exceedingly grateful to spend time recently with fellow sailors who’ve done the SE AK trip before and learn SO much not the least of which are cool places to see. We will continue visiting with these good folks, including my former boss and NOAA Officer Neil Bogue in the new year, to refine what couldn’t be digested on top of … uh … ‘some’ wine and delicious food!

Merry Christmas All!

Chronicles of our first-ever four month sailing cruise.

SY Encore C-400 MkII #264 – sea trial day, August 2021

The nap helped. The departure from Lukla was a hoot save for an overly careful hand-security inspection of everyone’s small backpacks. Three twin-otters landed within several minutes of each other, and the first one was taxiing, fully loaded again, back out onto to the iconic inclined, abbreviated runway just as the third plane was taxiing onto the tarmac – our plane. An airport never to be forgotten.
Haze in Kathmandu was relatively unchanged. Thunder and lightning was the afternoon norm for the next three days with a soaking deluge of rainfall – at last – on the afternoon of the 16th. The drawback: weather delayed our 787 arriving from Calcutta to Kathmandu and we were left largely in the dark for 4.5 hours. Instead of leaving for Doha at 8:25pm, the doors closed just shy of 1:00am. Of note, the only component of CV19 safety observed at the airport hinged on the presumption of negative PCR tests examined twice in the process of checking in. Social distancing was completely ignored in queues and stuffed busses as, occasionally, were the use of masks.
Wednesday the 14th we did a little shopping, having arrived from Lukla around 7:30am, but mostly relaxed. Thursday, we shopped a bit more visiting a large shopping district, Thamel, within walking distance of the Yak and Yeti Hotel. Then we explored an historic district south of the YnY with Martha Draves. After that, she went northwest in town, and we went northeast returning to the circular Boudanath Buddhist circular ‘mall’ where we got a few more things. The first wave of departures happened Thursday afternoon: Conan Bliss, Martha Draves, Polly Epstein, Steve Lesniak, and Helen Berenyi. We enjoyed dinner at YnY with Madisons, Mikki, and Astrid Hajjar and Amalia Carrillo-Batalla Mattar.
Friday morning, we set off with Astrid and Amalia to visit the Dwariki Hotel, a phased architectural restoration project funded by a Nepalese philanthropist over the past nearly 50 years. The signature feature of the three different buildings is stunning 15-16th century ornately carved wood window and entryway framing. An objective is to maintain the skills to produce such beautiful work in perpetuity.
All three days we ‘enjoyed’ liquid and noisy traffic flow with scooters and motorcycles generally outpacing cabs on both sides, all vehicles venturing frequently into oncoming lanes, all of which was being crisscrossed at intervals by trusting pedestrians. Should any want a queasy experience, I have two 1-minute back-seat videos to share.

Dawn came eventually, very cold and clear, but thankfully without much snow accumulation. Nine of us trekkers, Conan included, enjoyed a last delicious breakfast at the Madison Mountaineering Everest Base Camp, packed our duffels, and walked to the helo pad to await four 5-minute shuttle flights to Pheriche and two 9-minute combined flights to Lukla. We had anticipated a thrilling trip and were not disappointed. I was blessed to sit in the co-pilot seat and visit with the young Swiss pilot via headset. A few minutes of videos on both legs, first to Pheriche and then to Lukla, were captured. I will look into including a youtube link to one or two of the video clips I took(!) After lunch, I retired for an 18-hour nap to try to ditch my cold.

Helo arriving and taking off at EBC.

Helo flight over EBC.

Helo flight over Khumbu moraine.

Helo over Tengboche Monastery.

Helo flight along lower Dudh Koshi.

Helo landing at Lukla.

Having started taking Diamox last night, and being at 17,450ft, I awoke after almost no sleep, and it was very cold. That, combined with yak-dung-impregnated dust, and smoke from yak dung fires set me up for a cold that I carried through our return to Kathmandu. Fortunately, Jane was spared a similar experience!
We completed the climb to the EBC “entrance” (a very large spray-painted rock at 5364m/17,700ft) at around 1130, took photos, and pressed on to the next to highest camp where were welcomed by the Sherpa team who had set up the Madison Mountaineering camp – a sight to behold. Check out the picture of the Sherpas in line who greeted the entire team upon arrival. We walked along a “yellow brick road” made of local rocks. In the main climber’s dining tent, we enjoyed an outstanding lunch prepared by the MM chef who had joined the team and trained under an earlier French chef 😋. Conan Bliss, our lead trekking guide, then gave us a verbal presentation of the layout of the camp – personal tents, staff and trekker dining tents, staff communications and energy tent, main kitchen tent, and – most important – a combination of ‘restroom’ tents. Despite “tents,” this was a 5-star operation as things go. Floors were astroturf or equivalent on plywood. Bunks were thick foam pads on a rigid interlocking and elevated frame topped with a printed cover and suitable pillow. Each tent had an antechamber with chair for doffing boots and storing packs and duffels. More amazing was the fact that all tents are placed on a level combination of chiseled glacier and rock, a substantial chore redone every climbing season!
Following a delicious dinner, Art Muir stepped up to help climbers Kevin, Ben, and Haute under the tutelage of Rich, Jane, and me learn bridge. All three caught on very quickly which boded well as a new form of entertainment for the climbing team in the several weeks ahead. Coakie plays bridge as well though Rich was to head to the summit of Island Peak, Imja Tse starting tomorrow (which he successfully completed with a guide on 4/15!) I crashed early to kick the cold as very light snow continued from earlier in the afternoon, and Jane stayed up to watch the first movie of the climbing season – Amadaeus. I zoned out at last listening to the strains of Mozart’s Requiem!

Despite this being one of our shortest hiking days distance-wise, it was difficult because of starting from 5030m and hiking to 5288m/17,450ft. 258m (850ft) may not sound like very much at all, but climbing that vertical distance from 16,350ft was exhausting. And as if that weren’t enough, Garrett offered the opportunity to climb an additional 257m/850ft to Kala Pattar from which to get a clear late afternoon view of Mt Everest adjacent to Lohtse and the lower portion of the Khumbu Ice Field. The majority of trekkers and climbers latched onto this challenge, and off we went, Garrett setting a slow and steady pace that reminded me of climbing the last 1500ft to the summit of Mt Rainier above Disappointment Cleaver. The last 70 feet involved scrambling over a boulder field and, for me, encouragement from Mark Pattison, a noteworthy former NFL player, who had caught up with the lead six climbers. I was completely winded, but the thrill of reaching the top with a batch of climbers offset my state of exhaustion. The wind was howling and chilly. I descended to meet Jane, and we ascended at a steady pace back to the saddle within 70 feet of the top of Kala Pattar. Some terrific photos were taken at the highest altitude we were to reach, 5545m/18,300ft – which is above EBC. I was too wiped out to stay up long and took my first half-dose of Diamox to try to get some better sleep. Art Muir joined Jane for a few hands of bridge with the Draves.

I’ve not mentioned birds of Nepal, and there is an unusual assortment that has varied with altitude. Today I spotted the most colorful of all the birds I’ve seen so, something like a 3x Purple Finch in winter plumage. Dark-billed and yellow-billed crow-like birds have been common. As high as Gorak Shep I have seen these birds, the colorful finch-like bird, others that resemble over-stuffed Juncos, and large pigeons with a wide white band across the tail. I really should have looked up the common birds of Nepal before this trip!

Pictures are going to have to wait a bit and I’m behind a few days unfortunately. The internet is weak here and also overloaded with a few users this morning.

It is around 0F this morning, and my fingers are freezing as I type. The heat was turned on about a half hour ago, and it will take quite a while to warm this place up! It is clear out, and the sun is illuminating the mountain peaks to the west. I am sitting in “The World (sic) Highest Bakery Cafe” sipping on hot chocolate and a mocha and munching on a warmed brownie. Lobuche is a mere 6km from EBC and sits at 5030m/16,350ft, so this place certainly rates the title of highest bakery!

Yesterday our climb was nearly flat until we reached the terminus of the Khumbu moraine. From there we climbed a bit to Thukla (altitude of Mt. Rainier) where we had lunch. After that, we climbed a few hundred meters to the Climbers’ Memorial where numerous cairn-like monuments and some more stupa-like ones have been placed over many decades. One is there for Garrett’s former girlfriend Eve who perished in the 2015 earthquake and subsequent winds from a huge ice-fall from the ridge between Mt Pumori and Mt Lingtren that flattened the central portion the EBC. Garrett and his parents and current girlfriend Mikki placed the two prayer flags blessed at the Pangboche monastery two days ago.

Upon arriving in Lobuche, Rich Draves, Amalia, and I climbed up onto the south lateral moraine and peered into what is left of the great Khumbu Glacier below Nuptse. Pictures will impress! Just visible is the tongue of the Khumbu Ice Flow bathed in intermittent sunlight. To the north along the Chinese border sit Pumori to the left, Lingtren in the middle, and Khumbutse the latter of which sits overlooking EBC. Between Gorek Shep and Pumori is Kala Pattar, a ridge we aspire to climb tomorrow to see the sun setting on Everest.

People are just getting up now. We must be packed in 40 minutes, and breakfast will be at 8am!

4/14/21: Obviously well past the early 11 April posting above, we are now in Kathmandu, and I have less restrictive bandwidth. So the pictures below were taken 3-4 days ago. I’ll update April 11, 12 and 13 – arrival at Gorek Shep, EBC, and our help-flight from EBC back to Lukla. Cheers!