Having started taking Diamox last night, and being at 17,450ft, I awoke after almost no sleep, and it was very cold. That, combined with yak-dung-impregnated dust, and smoke from yak dung fires set me up for a cold that I carried through our return to Kathmandu. Fortunately, Jane was spared a similar experience!
We completed the climb to the EBC “entrance” (a very large spray-painted rock at 5364m/17,700ft) at around 1130, took photos, and pressed on to the next to highest camp where were welcomed by the Sherpa team who had set up the Madison Mountaineering camp – a sight to behold. Check out the picture of the Sherpas in line who greeted the entire team upon arrival. We walked along a “yellow brick road” made of local rocks. In the main climber’s dining tent, we enjoyed an outstanding lunch prepared by the MM chef who had joined the team and trained under an earlier French chef 😋. Conan Bliss, our lead trekking guide, then gave us a verbal presentation of the layout of the camp – personal tents, staff and trekker dining tents, staff communications and energy tent, main kitchen tent, and – most important – a combination of ‘restroom’ tents. Despite “tents,” this was a 5-star operation as things go. Floors were astroturf or equivalent on plywood. Bunks were thick foam pads on a rigid interlocking and elevated frame topped with a printed cover and suitable pillow. Each tent had an antechamber with chair for doffing boots and storing packs and duffels. More amazing was the fact that all tents are placed on a level combination of chiseled glacier and rock, a substantial chore redone every climbing season!
Following a delicious dinner, Art Muir stepped up to help climbers Kevin, Ben, and Haute under the tutelage of Rich, Jane, and me learn bridge. All three caught on very quickly which boded well as a new form of entertainment for the climbing team in the several weeks ahead. Coakie plays bridge as well though Rich was to head to the summit of Island Peak, Imja Tse starting tomorrow (which he successfully completed with a guide on 4/15!) I crashed early to kick the cold as very light snow continued from earlier in the afternoon, and Jane stayed up to watch the first movie of the climbing season – Amadaeus. I zoned out at last listening to the strains of Mozart’s Requiem!
Stewart Travels 