11 April – Lobuche to Gorak Shep

Despite this being one of our shortest hiking days distance-wise, it was difficult because of starting from 5030m and hiking to 5288m/17,450ft. 258m (850ft) may not sound like very much at all, but climbing that vertical distance from 16,350ft was exhausting. And as if that weren’t enough, Garrett offered the opportunity to climb an additional 257m/850ft to Kala Pattar from which to get a clear late afternoon view of Mt Everest adjacent to Lohtse and the lower portion of the Khumbu Ice Field. The majority of trekkers and climbers latched onto this challenge, and off we went, Garrett setting a slow and steady pace that reminded me of climbing the last 1500ft to the summit of Mt Rainier above Disappointment Cleaver. The last 70 feet involved scrambling over a boulder field and, for me, encouragement from Mark Pattison, a noteworthy former NFL player, who had caught up with the lead six climbers. I was completely winded, but the thrill of reaching the top with a batch of climbers offset my state of exhaustion. The wind was howling and chilly. I descended to meet Jane, and we ascended at a steady pace back to the saddle within 70 feet of the top of Kala Pattar. Some terrific photos were taken at the highest altitude we were to reach, 5545m/18,300ft – which is above EBC. I was too wiped out to stay up long and took my first half-dose of Diamox to try to get some better sleep. Art Muir joined Jane for a few hands of bridge with the Draves.

I’ve not mentioned birds of Nepal, and there is an unusual assortment that has varied with altitude. Today I spotted the most colorful of all the birds I’ve seen so, something like a 3x Purple Finch in winter plumage. Dark-billed and yellow-billed crow-like birds have been common. As high as Gorak Shep I have seen these birds, the colorful finch-like bird, others that resemble over-stuffed Juncos, and large pigeons with a wide white band across the tail. I really should have looked up the common birds of Nepal before this trip!

Today was the day of incredible clouds above massive peaks – Pumori left, Nuptse ridge right and several in between
Looking south – Lobuche right, Cholatse – most likely – center, and probably Pokalde left
Amazing clouds above Nuptse ridge
Clouds change by the minute. Pumori shoulder left, Lingtren with white face, Khumbutse center, Chinese peak next, and west shoulder of Everest next white capped point. Nuptse ridge far right
Pumori left; Lingtren (white blade), Khubutse, and an unnamed peak in China to the right.
Thar she blows!! Everest looming dark in the background at 8848 meters(!); Lohtse’s west shoulder almost eclipsed by Nuptse ridge
Our incredible leader Garret in blue; Mikki in green, Andrew with glacier goggles smiling, and Ray Stevens catching a shot of Garrett. Mark Pattison ascending behind Garrett
Pumori at left; Lobuche at right. Good stuff in the middle.
Spell-binding –
Still spell-binding – Everest left, Lohtse looming in background, Nupste at right
Her majesty Ama Dablam looms out of the clouds
Close-up of Everest

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