7 April – Tengboche and Debuche

Today was our second hardest hike after the Namche leg, but the day started with a ceremony offered by the mother-son owners of the Panorama Lodge, Migu and Doma. Climbers were blessed first and then we trekkers.
We traversed in leisurely fashion from 3440m up the Imja Kohla river on our right well below where we had hiked yesterday to a temple after which we descended all the way back down to the river where we had a quick lunch. Then we crossed the Imja Kohla and had a very long and very steep climb to Tengboche. “Teng” is heel. “Boche” is respect. There are a number of “boche” villages along the Khumbu valley. It is said that in the 16th century, a huge Dalai Lama tromped through the Himalayas, and everywhere he stomped, it flattened the ground for a village to be established.
The monastery at Tengboche is spectacular, and while photography isn’t permitted in the central part, got some good shots. At 3860m, 12,000ft, it is the second highest monastery in the world.
After leaving Tengboche we descended gently to Deboche, just under 12,000ft and the Rivendell Lodge where we’re spending the night. Ordinarily from here, Everest and Ama Dablam are visible, but clouds and persistent smoke render them invisible.

Doma is the matron of the Panaroama Inn
Climbers, from all over the world, and guides extraordinaire
We trekkers at Panorama Inn. Doma’s son is at left in the front row.
This beloved beast is OUR yak, and he (she?) appears not quite ready for yet another days’ hard work. (Yes, those are our two bags, plus one more, on its back!)
Stupas abound …
Gateway to the Tengboche Monastery. Huge prayer wheels are within the two laterally located buildings.
Yep, fertility is important to the human race.
Don’t screw up! They three eyes of Buddha are on you.
Ama Dablam to right and Kongdae to far right both of which we will pass; Everest is peeking over Nuptse ridge in distance, and Lohtse is cloud-topped.
Khombila to the southwest of Rivendell Lodge.

Early birds catch the best pictures …
*Closeup of Everest behind Nuptse ridge, clouds billowing gently off Lohtse. Summiters will have summited in time for this kind of sunrise and started back down by now… (*earlier post was in error about peak names…!)

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